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How To Program A Ac Remote
Copyright © 1994-2020
Samuel M. Goldwasser
--- All Rights Reserved ---
For contact info, please see theSci.Electronics.Repair FAQEmail Links Page.
Mar 23, 2020 Phishing emails and unsecure remote desktop protocol access are two common types of attack methods used to spread ransomware, says cyber breach firm Beazley Breach Response Services. 1) Remote code execution. 2) SQL injection. Remote code execution. The process of executing a piece of code in the server remotely by an attacker is called the Remote code execution. The Remote code execution is otherwise called the Arbitrary Code Execution. The main reason behind this attack is poor and improper coding. @mfm1960 - The new remotes are designed for u-verse TV watching with aux sound. Not universal support of other devices. If you know the earlier models support your player, you can look in e-bay & amazon. I have seen posts wher some have fo.
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Table of Contents
- Preface
- Introduction
- IR Remote Diagnosis and Repair
- Problems with Remotes
- Problems Not Due to a Defective Hand Unit
- IR Items of Interest
- IR Detector and Related Circuits
- IR Detector Circuits
Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
Preface
Author and Copyright
Author: Samuel M. GoldwasserFor contact info, please see theSci.Electronics.Repair FAQEmail Links Page.
DISCLAIMER
While it is hard to imagine any catastrophic consequences resulting fromattempting to repair a remote control, we will not be responsible for suchconsequences or collateral damage should it occur! :)Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
Introduction
Remotes, Remotes, and More Remotes
Twenty years ago, a wireless remote control was a $50 or $100 option (in 1980dollars) to a TV or VCR. Early remote controls used ultrasound or radiofrequency analog transmission and could perform only limited functions -you were lucky to get anything beyond on/off, volume, and channel up/down.Today, a remote control is standard with even the lowest cost basicelectronic equipment. Nearly all modern remote controls use Infra Red (IR)light for digital data transmission. Some have more buttons and functionsthan a personal computer! Unfortunately, many have row upon row of tinyidentical size buttons with no logical layout of functions. Others are amasterpiece of ergonomic engineering almost operating by themselves.There are two kinds of problems with remotes:
1. They seem to have legs of their own and disappear at the most inconvenient times.
2. They get abused by being dropped, dunked in Coke or beer, chewed on by the pet tiger, or left alone to develop dead leaky batteries.
While there are some remotes that will respond to a whistle and beep backto identify their location, most are the ordinary deaf, dumb, and blindvariety. I cannot help you locate your missing remotes. If you havedisappearing remote syndrome, a well designed universal remote - on a tether - may make a good investment. However, the following was too good topass up:
(From: Bill Samuel ([email protected]).)
'In '89, a Customer brings in their VCR for me to fix. (Zenith VRE-200) It won't accept tapes, plus their kids misplaced their remote, so they wanted a price on a new one. https://riskgoo287.weebly.com/zelda-ocarina-of-time-pt-br-rom-64.html.
Well, after taking the unit apart, I called them and said, 'Sir, I've found the problem with your VCR. BTW, you don't need a new remote.'
Most actual problems with remotes can be solved relatively easily. Theyare often of a physical nature. Since remotes operate on low voltagesunder non-stressful conditions, spontaneous electronic failure is relativelyuncommon. The following are not good for remotes: Sitting or stepping onthem, using them as drink stirrers, door stops, projectiles for targetpractice, substitutes for dog bones, or depositories for your old leakybatteries.
Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
IR Remote Diagnosis and Repair
SAFETY
There isn't anything dangerous inside a remote hand unit. Even staringpoint blank into the IR emitter isn't likely to harm anything. The worst thatwill happen if you make a mistake is that the circuit will be damaged beyondbeyond repair and a new remote control will be in your future! :)However, if you go inside the TV, VCR, or other controlled device, see therespective repair guide for that equipment for essential SAFETY information.
Testing of Remotes
Unless your remote hand unit has been run over by a bulldozer and is flat as apancake, don't immediately assume it is actually broken.- First, confirm that your problem is not simply due to a selector switch in the wrong position or an accidental press of a key selecting 'VCR' instead of 'TV'.
- If your 'problem' unit is a universal type, make sure it has not simply forgotten its programming or codes - reinitialize it. A common cause of memory loss is the batteries falling out or losing contact for an instant due to a fall or bump. To be sure it is properly reset, remove the batteries for a minute or so and also press the power button for a few seconds (to discharge any internal capacitors) before doing the reprogramming. See the section: Forgot Your Universal Remote Setup?.
- Some older TVs in particular may have a 'vacation' or other switch to disable the set (or just the remote functions). For that matter, if you cannot get the equipment to turn on at all, make sure it is plugged into a live wall socket. :-)
- Some TVs may occasionally become confused due to a power surge or for no good reason at all. Unplug the TV for a few minutes to reset it. It is also possible (though I don't have any evidence of this) that a remote can become confused. See the note above on programmable remotes.
- Before doing anything else, check and/or replace the batteries with fresh ones. Who knows how long they have been in there.
- Don't ignore the possibility that your spouse (or the local poltergeist) accidentally dropped the remote spilling the batteries - and put some back in backwards! This could result in either a totally non-functional remote, weak (limited range), or erratic operation. Permanent damage is not that likely but possible with some designs if the resulting voltage to the circuit board actually had reverse polarity.
- Next, try to determine whether the problem is indeed in the remote itself and not the TV, VCR, CD, or other controlled equipment. The easiest way to do this is to temporarily program a universal remote to match your equipment. If this now operates successfully, then you can be pretty certain that the problem lies in the remote unit.
- If you are not able to get a universal remote to operate your equipment, then either you have not found the proper code setting or the remote itself is indeed faulty (or you don't have a universal remote!).
- Should you or a friend have an identical or nearly identical piece of equipment, try the (faulty) remote on that (and its remote on your equipment) as a further test.
- If you have multiple pieces of equipment, make sure you have not accidentally substituted an apparently identical remote for a slightly different model VCR, for example. Not all equipment - even of similar type - from the same manufacturer necessarily use the same signal transmission format.
Diagnosing the Problem
The following assumes that there is no response to the hand-unit even if upclose to the TV, VCR, or other controlled equipment. Where the remote worksbut only over a shorter distance than when new, see the section:Reduced Operating Range.To narrow down the problem, use an IR detector to determine if the remoteis emitting an IR signal when each button is pressed. While this does notguarantee that the signal is correct, it eliminates most common problems fromconsideration. An IR detector card or an IR detector circuit like one of thosedescribed in the section: IR Detector and RelatedCircuits are very handy for testing remote controls and other IR emitters.Some camcorders, video cameras, digital cameras, security cameras,Web cams, and even cell phone cams are sensitive to IR as well and willshow a bright spot of light if aimed at a working source of IR. However,since many of these have an IR-blocking filter, a negative responseis not definitive unless you confirm that the cameraresponds to a known working remote. And, PCs and PDAs with IR links andsuitable software (e.g., OmniRemote for the Palm III) may be useful forremote testing. See the section: Some Alternative'Quick and Dirty' Remote Testers for additional options.
MCM Electronics, Centerville, Ohio/1-800-543-4330, list 2 different shapedcards for $7.29 each (#72-005/3.5 x 2.5' card & 72-003 /4.75 x 0.75' probe.Radio Shack, Edmund Scientific, and others offer similar detectors.
The salvaged IR sensor module from a TV or VCR may also be used as an IRdetector. These usually operate from a single supply (12 V typical) and outputa clean demodulated signal - you will not see the carrier, only the 1s and 0s.This will be true of an IR detector circuit as well unless you are careful toposition the remote and photodiode just so as the circuit acts as somewhat ofa low pass filter due to the B-E capacitance of the transistor. Radio Shackand Digikey (among other) also sell inexpensive IR receiver modules (under$5) which would also provide a demodulated signal for your viewing pleasure.However, note that some may be tuned for a particular carrier frequency like40 kHz and therefore may not respond to all remotes. (Note, I have heard ofspurious pickup issues with some of the Radio Shack units - they are not thesame as those sold a while ago.)
(From: Brett Walach ([email protected]).)
For anyone needing a great IR receiver at a reasonable price, try Radio Shack'sMOD1. It's an IR receiver that demodulates the data for 40Khz x-mitters. Theoutput can then be viewed on a scope or used to drive a small transistor whichwould in turn drive a speaker! The output from the MOD1 is the inverse of thecode sent. That is, the TTL logic level from the MOD1 is high when no IR ispresent. If by chance you need an IR receiver that operates on a differentcarrier, try DigiKey (1-800-DIGI-KEY). I know that they have the other twotypes for sure.
Reduced Operating Range
With proper design, there really shouldn't be anything in a remote control(or the receiver) that degrades with reasonable use (at least in terms ofoperating distance). However, not all remote controls are properly designed(or manufactured) and there can be other causes for a remote that used tooperate reliably from the other end of the house or bounced off the far wallbut now won't even respond directly from a few feet away:- Weak batteries - replace them!
- Dirt, gunk, tobacco smoke or cooking grease residue, and other coatings on the windows of the hand-unit or receiver. Clean thoroughly (but gently) with detergent and water, and alcohol, as required. This may mean INSIDE as well as outside!
- Damaged window in hand-unit or receiver. If someone attempted to clean the window with sandpaper, there could be problems. Remove, replace, or polish the damaged area.
- Weak IR LEDs. Since these are driven hard, it is possible for them to degrade over time. Replace with high intensity IR LEDs from Radio Shack or a real electronics distributor and see if that helps.
- Dried out reservoir capacitor. To drive the IR LEDs requires large peak currents. Sometimes, this depends on the input capacitor fed from the battery and not the battery itself. If this capacitor goes bad, the peak output will be greatly reduced or will be erratic. Test and/or just replace all electrolytic capacitors in the hand-unit.
Remote Repair
Most problems can be remedied without any special skills. However, wherebad connections or component replacement is involved, you will have to beable to do just a bit of fine soldering. In this case, a low power (e.g.,25 W) fine tip soldering iron and fine rosin core solder will be needed.Fortunately, the circuit boards in remotes are generally constructed usingfeatures sizes (pads and lines) that are state-of-the-art from the 1950s.Therefore, rework isn't nearly as challenging as, say, on your 500 MHz PC!CAUTION: You can easily turn a simple repair (e.g., bad solder connections)into an expensive mess if you use inappropriate soldering equipment and/orlack the soldering skills to go along with it. If in doubt, find someone elseto do the soldering or at least practice, practice, practice, soldering anddesoldering on a junk circuit board first! See the document: 'Troubleshootingand Repair of Consumer Electronic Equipment' for additional info on solderingand rework techniques.
Test equipment beyond a good eye and maybe a multimeter is rarely needed.
The most challenging part of repairing a remote hand unit may be just gettinginside! Manufacturers seem to pride themselves on the extent to which thisis becoming more nearly impossible without dynamite:
- Screws - Some well designed (from the point of view of repair) units have a screw or two in obvious places (back cover and/or inside the battery compartment). Once removed (generally with a proper fine tipped Philips blade screwdriver), the two halves of the case come apart, possibly after sliding one with respect to the other a fraction of an inch.
- Hidden snaps - If no screws are visible (and even after removing them in some cases), it will be necessary to carefully examine the seam and possibly inside the batter compartment to determine where the likely locations of plastic snaps. Running a butter knife or similar thin tool along the seam may persuade the unit to pop in half.
- Glue - I don't know if any remote controls use this more-or-less permanent approach but if so, careful use of a hacksaw may be necessary. :-(
Problems with Remotes
Most problems occur in the hand units due to the abuse inflicted on them bykids, pets, and even otherwise well behaved adults. However, the equipmentor even outside interference can also be at fault. Therefore, also see thesections: Problems with the Equipment andProblems Due to Interference.The following are the most common types of problems and suggested solutions.As noted, most are physical in nature: dead batteries, gunk, bad connections.
For all but the first two, disassembly will be required. Manufacturersseem to be using more and more creative (read: obscure and difficult toopen) methods of fastening the two halves of the remote shell together.There may be a screw or two and/or the case may simply 'crack' in half bygently prying with a knife or small screwdriver along the seam or slidingthe two halves a fraction of an inch to unlock some catches. Lookfor screws on the back (possibly under a not-so-easy to peel off label)and inside the battery compartment, as well as hidden snap fasteners.
Dead Batteries or Batteries Inserted Incorrectly
Solution obvious. If batteries tend to go dead quickly - the batteriesin a remote typically last years - then you may have a stuck button,some conductive grime under one of the buttons, or a defective IC - oryou may be using cheap batteries.Make sure that all the batteries point in the correct direction as markedinside the battery compartment or under its cover. If it uses more than2 batteries, getting one in backwards could also result in weak or erraticoperation.
Corroded Battery Contacts
Clean off the chemical deposits - first dust out the dried material witha soft brush and then remove the remainder with a damp lint free clothor paper towel. Polish the contacts with a Fiberglass brush and/or pencileraser and/or very fine sandpaper or a nail file. If there is evidencethat the battery juice made its way inside the case, you will need to openthe remote and thoroughly clean the interior. Additional repairs may beneeded if damage to wiring, components, or circuit board traces is evident.Broken or Intermittent Contacts
There are most often between the battery connections and the circuitboard. Carefully resolder and reinforce them if necessary. Therecould also be cracked solder joints on various component pins(particularly those that get abused like switches) as well. Reflowthe solder on any suspect joints.In addition, check selector, power, or enable) switches for properoperation. Remove the batteries and use an ohmmeter to test acrossthe contacts with the switch(es) in all positions. These switches canbe easily damaged as a result of dropping or squashing the remote. Thecontacts may become dirty, gunked up, corrode, or simply wear out aswell. Locating a replacement may prove challenging. Disassembling theswitch may allow you to clean or restore the contacts in some cases.
Broken Ceramic Resonator
These may fail from shock when remotes are dropped.The frequency is often 455 kHz (I assume since they are widely used asfilters in the IF section of AM radios and are thus inexpensive.)
If you have an oscilloscope, check for signals on the IC when buttonsare pressed - if there is no action on any pin, then you may have a badresonator (or bad IC, etc.). Monitoring on one lead of the ceramicresonator should produce a signal at its resonant frequency when a buttonis pressed. A typical waveform may have an amplitude of a few tenths ofa volt.
If you do not have a scope, one possible indication of a bad resonator(aside from it being smashed) would be a steady output from the IR LEDfor all button presses - normally the output would be visibly pulsating.Of course, this could indicate a bad IC as well.
A ceramic resonator usually is a small blue or orange object that lookssimilar to a plastic (sharp edges) or dipped (smooth edges) capacitor.
The circuit board marking will be X1 or CR1 or something like that.Replacements may be available from places like MCM Electronics orother electronics distributors. Or, consider an organ donation froma remote for equipment that has long since gone to that entertainmentcenter in the sky if the frequency of its resonator is the same.
However, the frequency may be fairly critical for proper operation (within5 percent or better may be required for some) and while not a common failure,I've heard of the resonator frequency changing (probably from a trauma) byenough to cause problems.
(From: Lewin A.R.W. Edwards ([email protected]).)
If your resonator has 3 pins instead of 2, and you can't find a replacement,you can use a 2-pin resonator, but you'll need to add two small caps (perhaps33 pF?) between the legs of your resonator and ground.
Dirt, Spills, Gunk, Oily Buildup Inside
This may cause circuit problems preventing keys from operating reliablyor physical problems resulting in keys being just plain stuck or sticky.Unreliable or erratic operation from these causes is probably the mostcommon remote control problem after dead batteries.- If you have recently cleaned the outside with a wet or damp cloth (or in your dishwasher!), then this is quite likely as liquid can seep inside and result in all sorts of strange behavior immediately or delayed by some time.
- Disassemble completely and wash both sides of the rubber membrane keypad, circuit board, and plastic case with water (and mild detergent if necessary) to remove sugar based grime and then isopropyl alcohol. Dry thoroughly.
- For stubborn crud, a pencil eraser and/or Fiberglass brush may be used with care (on the circuit board only). However, the gold plating (if present) and/or copper trace itself is quite thin!
- Where you find a oily film between the rubber and the circuit board, unless you really do a SUPER job of cleaning, it will come back quickly. It may come back no matter what you do.Once you think you got it all, do it again - and with soap and water as well - both the rubber and circuit board.This goo may originate from a number of sources (no one seems to know for sure) including: body oils, spills, plasticizers from the flexible keypad, protective grease, etc. Unless you had dunked the remote in a vat of motor oil to create this problem there may be no sure way to prevent it from returning in the future. More below.
I have one (1) data point to suggest that cleaning the rubber pad with a softpencil eraser may be better than washing. However, this may alsoremove the conductive material in some units.
(From: Steve Lenaghan ([email protected]).)
We do a ton of cordless phones and I have never had to repair a conductive padin my career (35 years). We soak them in scalding water and dish soap for 30minutes. I clean the PC boards with alcohol and a rough cloth. Works everytime.
(From: Michael Shell ([email protected]).)
People have noticed that the keys (and remotes) that are used more often, tendto have more oil problems. This is in agreement with my observations.
One thing I have to make clear is that I *KNOW* that whatever is going onis NOT due to spillage or other external contamination. If I had not seen itwith my own eyes, I would not believe it either! Sometimes the keys that areused most often (and have the most oil) are in the center - this is a LONG wayfor an external contaminant to have to travel!
The oil behaves a bit differently from most normal household (and hand) oils.
- It is not sticky in the least
- It is VERY clear.
- It is VERY hydrophobic and detergent action is noticeably less than with most petroleum based oils.
I would not have noticed these fine points except for the fact that I haveworked with Silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid which, except for an added purpledye, behaves in the same way.
So, it seems the silicone keypad manufacturers have been keeping a dirtylittle secret all these years!
I guess we all have to look forward to our 3 year cleaning ritual. I suppose a hardcore hardware hacker could do his own keypad baking and post some beforeand after weight measurements to tell us how many grams of oil these thingshold! (WARNING: you may have to do the baking in an oxygen free atmosphere!)
Worn or Corroded Pads on Circuit Board
These may be interdigitated or semi-circular patterns and suffer fromboth wear and corrosion. Conductive Epoxy or other similar conductivepaint (like that used for rear window defogger repair) or ink may be usedfor repair. A piece of thin copper foil can be glued to the circuit boardand soldered to the appropriate circuit trace. (Gold foil would be betteras it will not corrode but might be just a tad pricey for a $10 remote!)If the plating has worn off and cleaning the contacts doesn't last for morethan a few days or weeks, tinning them with a thin coating of solder shouldhelp.
Worn Conductive Material on Rubber Buttons
Compare the bottoms of frequently used keys with those that are rarelypushed. If you can see the rubber through the conductive material aftercleaning, the pad is likely worn to the point of being non-functional.This may be repaired with conductive Epoxy or other similar conductivepaint or ink. A sliver of aluminum foil can sometimes be glued to therubber surface. 3M makes EMI/RFI foil shielding tape, type 1181, thatshould work very well for this. Another source for small quantities ofmetal tape would be a shop that makes stained glass or sells supplies formaking it. Pencil lead (graphite) may also workthough for how long is unknown (though some have reported good successwith this readily available material).MCM Electronics at 1-800-543-4330 lists a Rubber Keypad Repair Kitfor $24.95. It is supposed to contain enough material to repair 400contacts (2 containers each good for 200 contacts). Their part numberis 20-2070. Not cheap but 400 contacts covers quite a few typicalremotes. Note: I do not know whether it is easy to mix only enoughmaterial for just 1 or 2 contacts - it would be worth confirming thatthis is possible before ordering. Or else, invite a few dozen friends(and their flakey keypads) over for a remote repair party. :-)
For a similar price, Remote ControlKeypad Repair also has a kit for coating the worn out rubber. It consistsof a little bottle of some conductive paint which doesn't appear to needmixing.
There is also a material called 'resistive coating' or something likethat that goes on like paint. It may be available from an electronicsdistributor. Or, if you are friendly with your local repair shop, theymay be willing to spare a few drops.
Occasionally, the conductive material is not actually worn off entirelyonly on the surface and there may still be some beneath surface. Lightsanding may help.
Unfortunately, there is no single best solution since the material usedfor the conductive rubber pads in remotes is not all the same.
(From: Paul Weber ([email protected]).)
'If you're looking for aluminum or copper foil tape with adhesive on it, visit your local hardware store, in the plumbing and/or roof rain gutter sections. Alternatively, try an auto parts store. I've found a variety of adhesive foils (including stainless steel) in these kinds of establishments. As for as repairing conductive rubber keypads: I've not used the metal tape method, but will probably try it. I've had great success with a thorough cleaning and light buffing of the contact area with very find (1000 grit) wet/dry sandpaper.'
(From: Rufus ([email protected]).)
'If you can find similar pads on another remote's membrane, trim them off square and use them to replace the defective pads. You can use silicone glue to attach them. Be careful to trim off the same amount from each pad so the buttons throw will be the same, and don't trim too deep as to damage the rubber dome.'
(From: Wes Hilterbrand ([email protected]).)
'About the best way I have found is to take an old remote (trash or have absolutely no need for) with the same type of conductive pads. Look for a little used pad (such as a record button), add some skillful maneuvering with an exacto knife, and some SuperGlue, and you can sometimes replace the bad pad(s) on your remote with better pads. The way I have done this is to cut the pad about halfway down from the sheet it's connected to (around the pad's circumference, a little ways under the conductive surface). This should probably be done only as a last resort, and WATCH YOUR FINGERS! BTW, this is just my opinion. I CANNOT be held responsible for any damage incurred due to following this procedure. Try this AT YOUR OWN RISK! Remember, if you mess up your working remote, there is no recourse.'
(From: Keith Craig ([email protected]).)
'I use a can of 'TV TUBE COAT' (GC Electronics), a conductive paint used for picture-tube aquadag (black paint on outside of picture tube used for ground). Squirt a tiny amount on a piece of paper and use a Q-tip (cotton swab) to drop on the pad.'
(From: Mark Saterfield ([email protected]).)
'Pens are available that come preloaded with conductive ink at local electronics stores though apparently not Radio Shack.'
(From: Mike Harrison ([email protected]).)
'It isn't the same as the silver stuff used for car screen heaters, etc., which I'd guess probably dries too hard and cracks off. It's made by Circuit Works, who also do conductive epoxies. Their part number is CW2610 for a repair kit, UK supplier is Farnell, price is UKP 22.33.'
(From Rodney A Schmidt ([email protected]).)
'What I used to remedy it was to use the stainless steel tape that is sold to seal ducting insulation, use a paper hole punch, and super glue the punched stainless onto the pad. I have had extremely good luck using this, and since the stainless is adhesive anyway, it stays in place while the super glue is drying.'
(From: Anonymous.)
'I tried using Permatex Quick Grid Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit (part number: 15067), which is easily available through the Internet and auto parts stores. My early attempts failed, they worked for a couple of days, and then the conductive paint would crack, peel off and make permanent contacts. Eventually I found three ways of making it work:- Use a paper match, soaked in the conductive material to 'paint' the rubber pad, this resulted in a extremely thin coat. It does not crack.
- Coat the pad with tipex first, allow to dry, then paint with the conductive material. It hasn't cracked after a couple of months.
- My wife use nail paint first then the conductive material. Again, did not crack.
Different buttons my remote have been repaired using these techniques (forthe sake of experiment!).'
(From: Bruce Curtis.)
'I have used graphite for lock lubrication to temporarily restore function to buttons but have found another method that so far seems to work far better since it is a more permanent repair. I used some double stick tape and a piece of conductive rubber from a 3M 2209 Disposable Wrist Strap. The 3M 2209 is often included with electronic equipment cards but is also available for just a couple of dollars. In addition to several feet of conductive rubber, the 3M 2209 also includes a piece of adhesive copper foil that could potentially be used as well but I tested the conductive rubber first and haven't need to test using the copper foil.'
Cracked Circuit Board
These can be repaired easily as the circuit boards are usually verysimple, single sided, and have wide traces. Use Epoxy or an adhesivelike Duco Cement(tm) or windshield sealer to repair and reinforce thecircuit board. Scrape off any insulating coating and jumper breaks withfine wire and solder. Do not just bridge the gaps with solder as cracksand future problems are a certainty.Bad IR LED
Test the IR LED(s) with an external power supply (with current limitingresistor) and IR detector and/or monitor voltage across them whileoperating. Substitute a visible LED and see if it lights up when keysare pressed. Use a scope to monitor the drive to the LED. You shouldsee the pulse code modulated carrier. If faulty, replace with a readilyavailable high intensity IR LED.Note that strictly speaking, these IR emitters should perhaps be calledInfra Red Emitting Diodes or IREDs since they produce no visible light.However, we will use the term IR LED throughout this document since itsmeaning is understood by the vast majority of readers.
Bad IC
If the remote uses a custom chip, throw it away! However, a failed chipis usually quite unlikely unless struck by lightening (now how would thathappen?). Even accidentally inserting the batteries backwards (thoughdefinitely not recommended!) - which tends to kill many devices - may notcause any harm to a remote. Check each pin on the IC with a scope todetermine if it is at least alive.(From: Duane P Mantick).
'An awful lot of IR remotes use IC's from the same or similar series. A common series comes from NEC and is the uPD1986C which, incidentally is called out in the NTE replacements book as an NTE1758. A lot of these chips are cheap and not too difficult to find, and are made in easy-to-work-with 14 or 16 pin DIP packages. Unless you have no soldering or desoldering skills, replacement isn't difficult.'
Dead Memory Capacitor
Some hand units have some type of device to hold the internal settings duringthe period when the batteries are removed for replacement. This may be a largeconventional electrolytic capacitor or 'supercap'. The PCB marking willprobably be a 'C' number but who knows? If this device fails, any sort ofbehavior is possible. Simply check across it with a multimeter - thereshould be some voltage on it, probably equal or slightly less than that ofthe main battery, though a lower value is possible as long as it's notnear 0 V. Replacements should be available.WARNING: DON'T replace the memory capacitor with a battery as it is chargedfrom the main battery when present. While the remote may appear to workthis way, attempting to charge non-rechargeable batteries can result inunpleasant behavior. Although the risk of fire or explosion is probablylow, why take chances?
Alternatives to Repair
There are a large variety of preprogrammed universal remotes available startingat $10. These are set up by inputting a code number for each type of equipmentyou will be using - TV, VCR, Cable box, etc. Don't loose the instructionmanual or you will not know what codes to use if the batteries go dead orthe remote looses its memory for any reason! Record the codes in pen on alabel on the back of the remote and inside the battery compartment. Forgeneral TV/VCR/cable use, the $10 variety are fine. However, many will notprovide special functions like programming of a TV or VCR or access to othermodel specific menu functions.However, some of the One-For-All (and probably others as well) remotes dohave capabilities not listed on the package (or web site). Check with themanufacturer (in the case of Universal, this can be via email) to determinewhether any of their products have what is needed for your model(s).
Universal 'learning' remotes are available at slightly higher cost (perhaps,$25-100). The better ones are capable of memorizing all of the actual signalssent by your original remotes by viewing the IR transmission directly. Ofcourse, your existing remotes must be working properly for teaching purposes.Make sure you get a money back guarantee with these as some may not becompatible with all equipment. The advantage of a learning remote is that itcan be taught to perform setup, adjustment, and programming functions as wellas those for normal operation. However the teaching process is likely to betedious and time consuming and you will have to keep track of which buttons dowhat - possibly not worth the effort in the end. If the backup batteriesshould ever go dead, the entire learning process will need to be repeated.
(From: Michael Schuster ([email protected]).)
'You can get most of the Zenith OEM remotes from MCM Electronics. These include some that were sold under the Gemini name as consumer items; their 4-device learning/preprogrammed remote was particularly nice). These definitely =behave= as though they have EEPROMS; i.e. learned functions are retained indefinitely without power.
Also the upgradable one-for-all remotes from Universal Electronics (i.e. the ones with the 'magic' key) almost certainly have EEPROM since they can be customized by moving buttons around and assigning straight binary functions to keys not in the original pre programmed arrangement. Such customizations are also retained if power is lost.'
(From: Dakuhajda ([email protected]).)
'Unfortunately RCA remotes cannot be repaired on any made after 1986. Thecircuit board is molded to the plastic case, only way to get the darn thingapart and you break it beyond being able to put it back together. Rca sells auniversal remote control system link 5 that even has the pip feature. Usually$25. If you really want an exact match look inside the battery cover you canget the part number for the remote control, six digits, usually 221000 orsimilar. You can call any RCA authorized servicer and they can order it foryou, or you can contact MCM electronics, Excel electronics, or any otherauthorized Thomson parts distributor. 'By the way the most expensive RCA universal remote that Wal-Mart sells I use inour shop for almost all but the very newest RCA TV sets. Last 2 years models.
(From: [email protected].)
Some universal remotes are better than others. I recently bought(here in the UK) one called 'Wizard' made by Philex (a big manufacturerof replacement remotes). It has several levels of programming:
- Manufacturer-based code numbers, which get you a basic level of functionality, similar to simple universal remotes
- Key reconfiguration. Once (1) has been set, one can select a button and pressing it repeatedly causes it to issue sequentially all (?) codes with the same manufacturer part but varying the second part of the code. Once you hit the right one, you can save the code for that button (in flash). A bit tedious but good coverage.
- It can learn the code from an existing remote, and save on any button.
All this can be setup for 8 different devices. Settings are saved in FLASHmemory so you don't lose any programming when the batteries die. :-)It does has a few undocumented quirks, like setting a new manufacturercode seems to clear all existing 'learned' codes. :-(
I bought it from Grandata (UK 0208-900-2329, international +44-208-900-2329)for GBP 16.50 + tax and postage.
I have also wired a phototransistor and an IR LED to the serial porton an old laptop, and experimented with turning that into a learningremote. I must say I was surprised at how many different coding schemesseem to be in use, just running through a) above and observing thewaveforms I documented about 20 variations before I got bored.I got it working with my UK satellite 'digibox' and with a JVCVCR, but haven't taken it much further. I was particularly interestedthat the VCR (HR-S4700EK) responds to two quite different codingschemes, presumably it was designed to be backward-compatible with someold code of theirs, but the newer code is required to get all thefunctions to work. A few codes do functions for which there is nobutton on the official remote (and are normally only accessible frombuttons on the front panel!) One code wipes out all ones timer recordingsettings! :-(
Original Replacement Remotes
In some cases, the only realistic option is to obtain an original replacementremote control. This might be the case where special functions need to beeasily accessible or you have fallen in love with the button layout, style, ordecorator colors! If you need to access special functions on your equipment,a learning remote might be an alternative if you have access to a workingremote control so you can teach it. However, learning remotes are rarely asconvenient as the original. As for color, there is always spray paint!- Consider the original manufacturer of the equipment only as a last resort as they will likely want to charge you an arm and a leg (or more) for a replacement.Panasonic has a web site you can enter your model number and get a parts list with list prices and part descriptions:This site includes support for Panasonic, Technics, and Quasar consumer electronics. However, my quick visit only showed accessory type items (e.g., replacement original remote controls, cables, etc.). Encrypted credit card protection presumably makes it possible to order parts directly.
- Electronics distributors like MCM Electronics do stock a variety of original remotes - prices range from $9 - $143 (Wow $143 for just a stupid fairly basic remote! It doesn't even have high definition sound or anything exotic. You can buy an entire VCR these days for less than $143 including its own remote!), The average price of these replacements is a still rather inflated $40.
- Remote and Manual Service offers factory original remote controls from a large number of companies. I do not know how their prices compare with the manufacturer direct or with places like MCM Electronics:
- Remotes.com, Phone: 1-800-REMOTES (1-800-736-6837).
- Here is one that also appears to specialize in this area:
- ReplacementRemotes.com, Remote controls, original remotes, universal remote controls, tv remotes, more, Phone: 1-336-969-1842.
They will also attempt to locate hard to find remotes. - And another. They also claim that most of the remotes they sell are factory original.
- Remote Control Warehouse, Phone: 1-888-873-6683.
Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
Problems Not Due to a Defective Hand Unit
Problems with the Equipment
While circuit problems with the hand unit discussed in the section:Problems with Remotes are most likely, the followingcauses should not be overlooked if the remote does not work or has limitedrange:- Dirty IR window - The plastic sheet which covers the IR detector may be coated with dust, grease, grime, or tobacco smoke, or other wise damaged. If sensitivity has decreased even with a new set of batteries, this is a distinct possibility. It is not always obvious whether a particular type of dirt or damage will affect response. Some condensation may be totally opaque to IR while appearing transparent to visible light. On the other hand, I have a TV where someone must have cleaned the sensor window with sandpaper or a strong solvent - it is totally clouded over but works just fine with my $10 universal remote.Test by removing the front panel if possible and direct the remote at the sensor directly. Inspect and clean the sensor window thoroughly with mild detergent and water.
- Defective IR sensor, receiver electronics, or microcontroller can result in the equipment simply ignoring you and/or doing whatever it pleases. The first two of these can generally be tested without service information. However, if they check out, advanced troubleshooting will be required.Borrow a replacement or universal remote to determine if the device responds with a known good unit. Check demodulated waveforms with an oscilloscope to confirm proper signal levels and reliable operation. See the section: Diagnosing the Problem as well.
And, there could be a design or manufacturing problem with your set.
While the IR-receiver module inside that TV may be a mature component and mayfunction well on the test bench, it is entirely possible that the TVmanufacturer has made a (design) fault in applying it. An IR-receiver is avery sensitive device, and a television is a very dirty environment. Thismay be a case of an EMC problem, not an optical problem. Under the rightconditions, with this type of IR-transmitters and IR-receivers, distancesof 100 feet or better may be crossed.
But, this should not be the customer's problem. The service organization ofthe TV manufacturer is the proper place to obtain a fix. The complaint isvalid and it should be cured.
Problems Due to Interference
Symptoms for the following may range from no, intermittent, or incorrectresponse or greatly reduced range to the equipment being possessed - a TVchanging channels, volume, or powering itself on and off as though beingcontrolled by a poltergeist. (Where the problem is due to more than onepiece of equipment interacting, see the next section.)These are likely possibilities if you have just changed your room layout oradded something to it: Jacobsen lawn prince lawnmower service manual.
- Interference from another remote in the same room which is defective (or is being squashed by a gorilla). Make sure there are no other IR transmitters including those like the a VCR+ or remote repeater that might be activated accidentally due to faulty programming or something pressing on the buttons. Do you know where all your remotes are hiding?A neighborhood kid (or adult with the maturity of a kid) may be playing tricks on you from outside your window or even across the street. It doesn't take much (a lens) to extend the effective distance over which a universal remote will operate reliably.Allow users to edit ranges in excel for mac. Cover the sensor of the misbehaving equipment with a piece of black tape to see if the problem goes away. Then round up your other remotes (and/or other animate objects) and discipline them!
- Fluorescent lamps using electronic ballasts - These may be newer ceiling fixtures or the energy efficient compact fluorescents used as replacements for the regular light bulbs in table lamps. The electronic ballasts are switching power supplies and these may result in modulation of the light intensity at high frequencies confusing the remote control receiver.Turn off all fluorescent lamps to see if the problem goes away. A cardboard baffle can be taped to the sensor to block the interfering light. Try a different brand of compact fluorescent as not all cause interference.
- Bright lights in general - Enough ambient light, be it from the Sun or a 1000 W flood may overload the sensor. Ceiling fans can sometimes modulate the light with their fan blade rotation or vibration of the filaments of the bulbs which can confuse the remote control receiver and microprocessor.Turn off the lamps or move the Sun
to see if the problem goes away. A cardboard baffle can be taped to the sensor to block the interfering light. Simply changing the orientation of a lamp shade or slightly moving one of components may be all that is needed. - Electrical interference from nearby equipment. Inadequate shielding in the sensor electronics could result in susceptibility to RF emissions from other gear.Turn off suspect devices. If the problem goes away, they will need to be moved to another location. Shielding is probably not a viable option.
Where Multiple Pieces of Equipment Use the Same Codes
It sometimes happens: A second VCR or TV, even if from a differentmanufacturer, may use exactly the same remote coding. Where there is nounit select switch on the device and hand unit, only careful aiming (possiblywith a set of blinders!) will allow control of one at a time.There are three ways to solve this problem: changing the wavelength ofthe light, the modulation frequency, or coding used by the remote. Onlythe first of these is likely to be realistically possible without majoreffort and would involve replacing the IR LED(s) in the hand unit withvisible ones (red, yellow, or green) and replacing the IR passing filteron the controlled equipment with one selective for the visible wavelength.The silicon sensor in the remote receiver probably will work just fine forvisible light. A colored piece of cellophane or plastic may be adequatefor the filter. Using a green LED may be best since its wavelength isfurthest away from the IR wavelength making the filtering easier.
I have not actually tried this stunt but there is no fundamental reason whyit shouldn't work. However, some experimentation may be required to find asuitable high brightness LED and to match it to driver in the hand unitsince the LED's voltage drop will be different and may require changing aresistor. And yes, with care, it should be possible to extend this approachto 3, maybe even 4 devices. Multicolored remotes might be kind of cool. :)
Forgot Your Universal Remote Setup?
Hopefully, you saved the instruction manual. No? Some universal remoteslike the Zenith Allegro have an 'auto search function' which will sequencethrough all possible codes. You then push a button to lock in the propersettings when the TV or VCR's channel or power status changes. Of course,since you don't have the instruction manual, you likely don't know how touse this feature either!The manufacturer of the remote control is the next likely source (after theinstruction manual) for the codes and other information. However, there isa good chance that one of the following web sites may be able to help you:
- Memorex has a web site at:But they suggest using the technical support line (800-636-8352) for remote control programming and other Memorex consumer electronics questions.
- The RCA Web site used to have complete user manuals for their universal remotes. Maybe they still do but navigating that site is so confusing with multiple 404 errors that I gave up. However, I was told that you should go to: 'Shop RCA', then 'Accesories', then 'Universal Remote Controls', then the model in question. The PDF link to the owner's manual is at the bottom of the page listed as 'Owner's Manual'. Maybe. :)
- Remotes has extensive info on both Radio Shack and One-For-All brand remotes. This Web site may be more stable than the ones provided by the manufacturers.
- The Sony Web site has detailed programming codes and some troubleshooting info for some of their universal remotes:
- Universal Electronics, makers of the One-For-All(tm) line of universal remote controls (and other products) has a web site:There is complete info on programming and special functions for many models. Since other universal remotes may be rebranded One-For-Alls, this information may be useful for those as well.
- US Electronics, makers of a variety of universal remotes (1-in-1 CATV, 2-in-1 Universal, 3-in-1 Universal, 4-in-1 Universal, ABC (Promote series), etc.) has a web site:There are complete specifications and setup instructions for most of their products (with the rest coming soon).
- Zenith has an extensive web site with product specifications for many of their audio/video products. Gemini remotes (e.g., Easy-3) are made by Zenith. There is nothing there at the present time but indications are there may be remote information in the near future.And here is another one:
Next time, make copies of the instruction manual(s) and put them in obviousplaces like taped to the back of the TV or inside the entertainment cabinet.
Better yet, print the specific instructions and/or codes on a slip of paper andstuff it into the battery compartment of the remote. Or tape the info to theback and then cover with clear tape to protect it from wear.
One of the primary axioms of life is that you will lose those instructionmanuals. :-)
Code search Programming of RCA SystemLINK Remote Controls
Perhaps this is your lucky day and this is the type of remote you have that isin search of an instruction manual.I know this procedure works for models 3 and 4+ and assume it to be similar forthe others.
(From: Larry Sabo ([email protected]).)
- Make sure the device you are programming is turned off.
- Press and hold CODE SEARCH.
- Press and release TV, VCR, or CABLE corresponding to the device to be controlled. The indicator light will flash once to indicate the search is enabled.
- Release CODESEARCH.
- Press OFF/ON repeatedly until the device turns on.
- Press CHANNEL V (channel down) for verification. DO NOT press any other buttons at this time.
- If the channel changes on the device, the code is valid. Press ENTER to complete the search.
- If the channel does not change, turn off the device (without attempting to use the remote). Then continue search by repeating steps 5-6. When all codes have been searched, the indicator light will flash twice and the remote will return to the normal mode.
'I find it works better if you have the unit on and watch for it to go off.It is easy to miss it coming on and then you have already passed the propercode and have to start over.'
Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
IR Items of Interest
Increasing the Range of a Remote Control or IR Data Link
For operation between rooms, a repeater is best - an IR receiver that sendsthe data over a cable to an IR transmitter in the other location. This wouldrequire an IR receiver module similar to the one found in a TV or VCR, bufferto drive the cable, and a IR transmitter modulated at the appropriate carrierfrequency (around 40 kHz typically).If extra distance or sensitivity is needed in the same room, it may not betoo hard to replace the IR LEDs in the hand unit with more and/or higherpower devices (though the IR LEDs used originally are generally quite powerful)but this would require some circuit hacking and possibly some reverseengineering of the design to determine what is possible. A small convexlens over the IR window on the receiver will help as well but will reduce theangle to the receiver over which response will be reliable. This would besuitable if you always use the equipment from a fixed location like a couchat the opposite end of the room.
Where the transmitter and receiver are both in restricted locations, a shortfocal length convex collimating lens can be added to the transmitter as wellas the receiver. The angular coverage of both receiver and transmitter willbe reduced but the range will increase. Reducing the beam divergence by afactor of 2 at the transmitter will increase the range by approximately afactor of 2. Doing this at the receiver as well will add another factor of 2.Several hundred feet should be possible with very inexpensive lenses. I wouldsuggest a lens of around 1 inch diameter with a 1 inch focal length. This isnot critical but an IR detector circuit or card should be used to help set upthe proper distance to the transmitter IR LED and receiver photodiode.
Remote Remotes (Remote Extenders)
In some situations, it is desirable to be able to operate a remote controlledpiece of equipment from another room - where a direct line-of-site path doesnot exist. One example of this would be to control a stereo receiver in theliving room (which has speakers wired all over the house) from a bedroom.There are a number of ways of implementing this:
- RF - An IR receiver in the bedroom retransmits the codes over on a radio frequency carrier to an IR transmitter in the living room.
- Hard-wired - An IR receiver in the bedroom converts the IR to TTL (or other electrical) pulses wired to an IR transmitter in the living room.Where at least one video cable exists between the two rooms, a variation on this theme uses a combination of the coax shield and earth ground to send the signal between the rooms.
- House wiring - An IR receiver in the bedroom modulates a carrier injected into the AC wiring. An IR transmitter picks off the signal from the AC wiring.
(From: Robert Scott ([email protected]).)
One of these circuits exists at:
(From: Francis VE2FGS ([email protected]).)
I personally have small pyramids called 'Powermid' made by X-10 which workfine.
Those come by pair, one transmitter and one receptor. You plug them in 120 VACwall outlet and it transmit signals between the two pyramids with FM signals.It work very fine and I think it's the most practical, cheap, and fast way totransmit IR signals from one room to another.
I paid about $40 (Canadian) for the pair.
Controlling TVs, VCRs, CDs, etc., From a PC
(From: Donald Hoffman ([email protected]).)I know of 1 link to such devices. Try:
- The B.I.R.D. Computer Controllable Learning IR Remote
IR Signal Transmission and Coding
Modern remotes use a pulse code modulated carrier to send the command. Typicalcarrier frequencies vary between roughly 36 and 56 kHz (although rumor has itthat Bang and Olefsun remotes may use 455 kHz for the actual IR carrier - Ihave not been able to confirm this). Each pulse or bit consists of multiplecycles (e.g., 32) of this carrier. Here are approximate measurements made ofthe general characteristics of some typical remotes:For buttons that repeat, typical rates are 10 to 20 Hz and the entire code mayactually be sent only when the button is first pressed with only a 'repeat'code sent while it is held down. (* This extra length 'bit' was evident inthe repeat code for the Toshiba VCR and Yamaha receiver - which both seemedto use very similar coding schemes. Repeat for all keys used a 320 cycle bitfollowed by an 80 cycle gap and a 20 cycle bit.) It would appear that variouscombinations of NRZ, RZ, PWM, and others are used depending on manufacturerand model. Think of the challenges involved in designing a universal remote!The carrier frequency and coding schemes (these are even more varied than thetable above would indicate) have apparently not been standardized. They mayalso vary quite a bit even different models of equipment from the samemanufacturer. Therefore, it is beyond the scope of this document to enumeratethem all. It is possible to see these types of waveforms with an oscilloscopeby monitoring internal signals of the remote including certain pins on thecontroller IC as well as the IR LED or its driver or across the transistor ofthe IR detector circuit (see the section: IR Detector andRelated Circuits).
Capturing Remote Control Codes
(From: Dez Ellis ([email protected]).)Check out ZipLabel.com ComputerizedInfrared Remote. They have a very cheap and cheerful method of obtainingIR codes. DOS software is provided for textual or binary capture of remotecontrol codes. Windows software for the device is also linked to the site. TheWindows software 'Monster Clicker' allows you to create any number of virtualremote control functions. This software also has full Macro facilities. Itis well worth a visit for the small amount of construction required this is anexcellent option.
Links to IR Related Web Sites
The sites below have quite a bit of information on IR remote data transmission,coding schemes, various circuits. There are even tables of formats for theremotes from a number of manufacturers:Here is an even more extensive list:
(From: Joe Krantz ([email protected]).)
(From: Tomi Holger Engdahl.)Almost all you can find free from the net you can find linked from
- http://www.epanorama.net/links/irremote.html.
Here is a site that appears to have a lot of more or lessnon-commercial info on medium to high end (they say) remote controls fromvarious manufacturers including detailed coding and other technical details:
And Web sites with extensive information on remote control codes:
Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
IR Detector and Related Circuits
IR Detector Circuits
Two approaches are shown below.- The first uses a bare photodiode as the sensor. It is simpler, lower power, and shouldn't care what, if any, modulation is used by the IR source.
- An IR detector module salvaged from a TV or VCR, or purchased from Radio Shack or elsewhere may be used instead of a photodiode. This will have a much greater dynamic range (response to both weak and powerful signals) than a simple photodiode. However, some of these assume a particular modulation frequency and will be blind to anything else. Power requirements may also be more restrictive - it may insist on regulated 12 V).
IR Detector Circuit Using Bare Photodiode
This IR Detector may be used for testing of IR remote controls, CD playerlaser diodes, and other low level near IR emitters. It will not have thesensitivity or dynamic range of the approach described in the section:IR Detector Circuit Using IR Receiver Module but willrespond to all sources of IR falling within the wavelength range of thephotodiode used since there is no demodulation or coupling circuitry to getin the way.IR radiation falling on the photodiode causes current to flow through R1to the base of Q1 switching it and LED1 on.
Component values are not critical. Purchase photodiode sensitive to nearIR - 750-900 um or salvage from optocoupler or photosensor. Dead computermice, not the furry kind, usually contain IR sensitive photodiodes. Forconvenience, use a 9V battery for power. Even a weak one will work fine.Construct the circuit so that the LED does not illuminate the photodiode!
The detected signal may be monitored across the transistor with anoscilloscope.
IR Detector Circuit Using IR Receiver Module
This one uses an entire IR receiver module as the IR sensor. Its sensitivityand dynamic range will be much better than the circuit described in thesection: IR Detector Circuit Using Bare Photodiode sincethese modules have automatic gain control circuitry built in. However, somemodules are tuned to a particular modulation frequency and/or are AC coupledand will not respond to all remotes or other pulsed or continuous IR sources.The IR receiver module from a TV, VCR, or purchased from Radio Shack orelsewhere, drives the base of Q1 through R1. It may even be possible toeliminate the transistor circuit entirely and connect the LED directly to themodule's output (in series with a current limiting resistor to Vcc or Gnd) butthat depends on the drive capabilities of the module. You can use whateverVcc is required for the IR receiver module for the LED circuit as well but mayneed to change the value of R2 to limit the current to the LED to less thanits maximum rating.
The specific case where Vcc is +5 V is shown.
Steve's Instant IR Tester
(From: Steve Rice ([email protected]).)IR receiver diode (from scrap Penney's unit) attached to 18' single pairwires-passed through heavy-gauge straw (from some unknown latte drink in theearly A.M.). RTV the tip to maintain rigidity. Positive end to plus end of9 V battery. Negative end to 330 ohm 1/4 W resistor, and from there to displayLED (I chose a pretty red one from the scrap box), and then back to negativeof battery.
Time consumed: 2 hours. (1 hour to make sure the RTV was cured properly.)
Application to numerous remote control sources and to a couple of CD pickupsprovided nice glow from the indicator LED.
I just received a Fisher 25 disc unit for repair, and the above tester wasinstrumental in determining that over 12 IR emitters were functional. (Someof these were in locations otherwise very difficult to access.)
Some Alternative 'Quick and Dirty' Remote Testers
In addition to the IR detector circuits, IR detector card, and camcorder,video camera, or digital camera here are a few other options:(From: Raydon Berry ([email protected]).) Mac dre albums free.
Measure the current consumption from the batteries. Put the multimeteron a range of about 25 mA and when you press each button, the code beingsent will show up as a wagging needle on a VOM or an average current for aDMM. If the ceramic filter or the IR diodes have failed, the currentremains very low, but if OK, you should see pulses of 5 to 10 mA.
(From Malik ([email protected]).)
'If you have a IR remote TV in the workshop for testing VCRs and other videoequipment, you can modify this so that audio can heard from the speaker whichrepresents the IR signal.Simply couple the output of the IR receiver (in the TV) to the input of theaudio output stage. Use a low value ceramic cap and a high value resistor,this should be possible on all remote TV's and will cost you next to nothing.'
(From: ShyGuy4Yu ([email protected]).)
'Take a known good IR receiver from an old set. Supply proper DC to it. Feedthe output into an audio amplifier. You can hear intermittent operationreally well without squinting at test equipment. Put one on the counter fordemo to customers. Great!!'
(From: Sam).
What a nice idea! The only concern I would have is that not all IRtransmitters use the same modulation frequency so I don't know howforgiving the demodulator in the IR receiver would be. Thus, you mightthink a remote control is bad when in fact it is just incompatible.
You could probably learn to recognize the codes by ear after a whileas well! :-)
(From: Paul Grohe ([email protected]).)
'Here is a another 'quick' and 'very dirty' test of the IR emitter I have used:Clip a *glass* encased diode (1N34, 1N914, 1N4148, etc.) between yourscope probe tip and ground clip. Crank the scope sensitivity up to about20 tp 50mV/div. Hold the diode by the grounded lead (to reduce noise pickup).
Point the 'business' end of the remote directly at the clear part of thediode body. The IR packets will now be visible on the scope.
You may have to move the remote around to find the 'hot spot' in the window.The more of the diodes junction that is exposed, the better the response.
A Sony remote generates about 50mVpp with a typical 1N4148/1N914 and morethan 200mVpp with a 'wide open' 1N34A point-contact Germanium (at 1 cm).
How To Program A Atak Remote Start
BTW, the time constant of this setup may mask the actual 40kHzcarrier pulses. Place a 100k resistor in parallel with the diodeto see the individual pulses clearly (sensitivity *is* reduced).
Or just simply hold the remote against an AM radio for a quick test.'
(From: Sam)
And, Filip also suggested that last one so I will honor him as well. :-)Almost any sensitive amplifier may pick up some clicks from a workingremote. A guitar or microphone amp may work for this. However, none of theseindirect methods actually test the IR output but probably are accurateenough in most cases.
(From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz ([email protected]).)
'Simply hold a pocket AM radio or Walkman set on AM and push the buttons. Thisworks for all the remotes I have. except the ultrasonic one. :-)'
(From: Bob Quackenbush ([email protected]).)
'Tune an AM radio to a quiet area of the band, hold the remote near the(normally internal) antenna, press and hold any key on the remote. The soundwill be a quiet fluttering, so listen carefully. Be careful with yourinterpretation of the results. 'No flutter' may NOT mean that the transmitterisn't working.'
(From: David C. Brink ([email protected]).)
'Just dissect the remote far enough to get access to the IR LED(s) leads (ifthe remote has been through the moving bits of the Lazy-Boy a few times, suchdisassembly might not even be necessary). Hold a LED in parallel with it andsee if it lights when you press the remote buttons.'
(From: Sam)
Note: Since the voltage drop across an IR LED is usually less than thatacross a visible LED, this may not work unless the remote uses two LEDs inseries. In that case, substitution may be needed.
Back to IR Remote Repair FAQ Table of Contents.
-- end V3.20 --
As employees break through the cubical barrier and expect more workplace flexibility, more employers are answering that call and finding that they’re benefiting from the change in a myriad of ways. For those companies that haven’t set up a remote work program yet, here are some tips to get started.
Workplace flexibility is expected to continue as a growing workplace trend in 2015, according to PayScale.com. Recent research indicates that employers who make flexibility available to employees will reap considerable residual benefits.
How Remote Work Programs Benefit Employers
Consider these five employer benefits to introducing workplace flexibility:
- Increased productivity. Employees with increased flexibility are less likely to complete personal tasks on the clock, and those who telecommute are far less likely to report to work late.
- Loyalty. Flexibly scheduled employees report a stronger loyalty to the employer and an affinity to staying long term, according to the Families and Work Institute study Employers in the U.S.: Five Surprising Trends.
- Training. Because employees with flexible work options tend to stay in their positions longer, the employer has less cost in training new hires.
- Reduced paid sick leave. Work-from-home employees report using less paid sick leave each year.
- Less equipment, overhead. As more employees transition from working in the office to home, the employer’s equipment requirements and overhead could go down. Consider the possibility for employees to use their own Internet access and laptops for assignments, and research the cost benefits for renting less office space to house fewer in-office employees.
How to Set Up a Remote Work Program
When introducing workplace flexibility as an option for your employees, ask your human resources department or managers to implement the following:
- Create communication protocols. Work with the transitioning employees to develop a communication plan with the home office. Discuss the communications tools required and the expected number of in-person meetings needed per month to maintain the workflow and employee engagement.
- Determine scheduling. Develop a structure for core hours so telecommuting employees and in-office employees have an overlapping schedule for interacting each day.
- Engage with human resources. Establish a strong channel of communication between human resources and offsite employees to ensure the arrangement is working as anticipated for both parties.
- Plan to review and revise. Map a follow-up plan to discuss how the transition has been going for the employee and for the company. Work together to develop a strategy for improvement, if necessary.
To find out more about the employer benefits to providing workplace flexibility, go to the SHRM Foundation’s publication Leveraging Workplace Flexibility for Engagement and Productivity.
Readers, does your company already have a remote work program established? If not, what are you doing to help make that happen? Leave a comment and let us know!
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